Baztan Valley

In this first stage we will travel a spectacular route with continuous panoramic views of the coast of Gipuzkoa. This itinerary largely follows the route of the Camino de Santiago del Norte. Ascent to Igeldo and continuation along the mountain range, between tracks and local roads, until the steep descent to Orio.
There we will go around the Beastegi mountain from where we will have exceptional views of the beaches of Zarautz and the coastline towards Getaria. But to Getaria we will arrive through a steep route through the mountain, with a small uphill section. Then gliding along tracks in better condition until the descent to Getaria. Visit the town and return to retake the signs of the Camino to go to the valleys of Txakoli. Leaving behind the town of Askizu we will have a view of Zumaia and the coast in our vertical. A fun descent will take us in a moment to this picturesque seaside town, birthplace of the great painter Ignacio de Zuloaga.

We leave Bera heading the asphalted tracks that lead to the last hamlets of the village on a steep slope. Before entering the forest it is advisable to turn towards the village to contemplate the spectacle of Bera and its pastures descending towards the bottom of the valley.

We will continue along narrow paths through lush forests. Some small stretches of more broken terrain uphill will require a little more effort on our part. Then we will continue along some tracks in good condition that will take us through forests and clear stretches to the pass of Lizarreta. This is a privileged viewpoint between the valleys that go down to Etxalar and those that on the other side go towards Sare, with the Atlantic sea in the background. The pass has two great bars to recharge your batteries. They are 10 meters from each other and offer similar culture and gastronomic offer separated by a border line.

We will continue on the other side of the pass following the Pyrenean ridge. First we will walk a good stretch coinciding with the archaeological path of Zentinella, where we will see some curious constructions for hunting pigeons. All an ancient technique that is preserved in the Pyrenean valleys of Navarra. We will continue along less traveled tracks and more varied terrain, in dense forests, dotted with some old farmhouses of sturdy stones.

Arrived at the Ezkisaroi pass, the GR11 would take us directly to the next section of our route, but the hardness of the path broken in steep slope makes us take the most comfortable option that follows the small asphalted track that links the Baztan Valley with the hamlets that are scattered towards Zugarramurdi. It is an attractive and narrow local road between forests that we travel annually in its entirety in our route of Pyrénées Solitaires. We follow it for 7 km to link up with another asphalted track that gives access to Elizondo. A first hard climb of 2 km and a long descent to the village with spectacular views from the top.

Departure from the same of the Bidasoa greenway that passes through the town. We travel several tracks and trails uphill that follow parallel to a small stream between a closed forest. Be careful with the mud and moisture in the stones, depending on the season and the rains of the previous days. We will leave this area by a short but steep ramp. We reach a more open area of farmhouses where we take small asphalted stretches. In a curve to the left comes out the trialera of the “Mil Curvas”, actually a short area, but with significant slope through a deep singletrak that requires expertise. It can be avoided by taking the paved track that goes down to the village before entering the trail.

We will pass through the town of Lesaka, one of the Cinco Villas that make up this historic region. Its stately houses are worth a ride, even if it is on the back of the bike. From Lesaka to Igantzi we will continue along quiet asphalted tracks that link the farmhouses of the two towns. Igantzi is the smallest village in this region, but like all the others we ride through, it is worth a walk among its gothic church, its large farmhouses, and its old fountain.

We continue along the river towards the Sanctuary of San Juan Xar, within the nature reserve of the same name. It is a unique enclave that preserves the only native birch forest of the peninsula. We will find a fountain where we will have to follow the tradition of rubbing ourselves with the water of the 3 spouts if we want to obtain the miraculous effects on our skin. We will continue along the road we came until we take a track that will take us to the right of the river, flat until the vertical of the village of Arantza. There begins the beautiful Roman road on a steep slope. Beware of the slippery ground. It is worth walking through the small but charming village. Once through it we will continue more gently to the hill under the Artaleku. From here we will follow a wonderful aerial track in very good condition that will take us for 11 km to the vertical of Elgorriaga. We will follow some of the variants that will take us to the village through the bucolic water path.

This itinerary will entertain us for a large part of the day with its varied sections and constant changes of valleys. In Oronoz we will climb the beautiful forest of the Señorío de Bertiz, which has a curious conservation history.

From the pass at the top of the Señorío, which coincides with the small asphalted track that connects Baztán with Zugarramurdi, we will start a steep climb up to the Lazkanberriko pass. From here we alternate stretches through meadows, tracks in fairly good condition, near pasture areas, closed beech forests, etc.. We are continually cresting along the chain that separates us from the Baztan valley. We will coincide for a good stretch with the GR11, passing by the pigeon hunting huts and some bunker vestige of the fears of other times. We alternate ascents and descents on tracks of different firmness, but without losing too much elevation with respect to the ridge.

We will make a fun descent through forests towards Urdazubi / Urdax. In the last sections the slope becomes steeper. Urdax was born in the 11th century as part of the monastery and pilgrims’ hostel of San Salvador. The river Uragana runs through the village, crossed by several medieval bridges. The canal near the monastery leads to an old mill.

From Urdax we have one last small climb and a change of valley to Zugarramurdi, all on comfortable asphalted tracks.

Famous for its caves, its covens, and its inquisitorial processes, the small village has a great charm that in recent times is critically increasing its tourist growth. Alex de la Iglesia’s film, Las Brujas de Zugarramurdi, has been one of the causes of this increased popularity.