Lonely Pyrenees

Transfer day between Barcelona and Isaba where we will stay before the start of the first stage. Departure from Barcelona around 15h.

Departure in the morning to face one of the first major mountain passes of the route: La Pierre Sant Martin. We enter the territories of BasajaunThe Basajaun, the mythological lord of the forests that we can meet in all the extensions of Irati that we will cross. It is a hairy giant, protector of livestock and strong character. It is the Pyrenean and friendly version of the Asian Yeti.

We will pass through a gorge that is the gateway to the wide valley Belagua, surrounded by a cirque of imposing mountains that the road will gain in continuous zigzags. The route will continue through an endless and labyrinthine chaos of limestone rocks that pass on both sides of the border. Once we arrive at the Pierre Sant Martin pass, a vertiginous descent awaits us on a lonely road that crosses the Issaux forests until we reach the more open valleys of Arette, Montory and finally Tardets.

In the afternoon we will have the chance to face one of the great giants of the Pyrenees and protagonist of some of the most outstanding feats of the Tour de France: the Larrau Pass, from the French side. The pass is as beautiful as it is hard, but we can make the approach from Tardets or getting a little closer to the beginning of its attack.

Today we will face the most demanding stage in terms of cumulative elevation gain. But above all the solitary and little known Ahusky pass that has the characteristics of most of the passes of the Iparralde, demanding and aerial passes with prodigious views of the Pyrenean chain. The first 5 kilometers through the valley of Alçay – Alçabehéty are pleasant, until a sudden curve to the right will show us the first teeth. The pass is about 10km at an average of 8%, although we will find some peaks of 12%.

From the Ahusky lodge where we will recharge our batteries, we will link up with the Iraty Chalets, in the Bagargi pass, through the Col de Arhansus. This is one of the most beautiful and sought after sections of our route. Former tracks are now asphalted, but where local vehicles hardly travel. Winding and narrow routes where we must pay attention to the gravel or branches that we can find on the road, but sections of a beauty of Stendhal syndrome, which in this case communicate two nearby but distant areas in the Pyrenean chain.

From Bagargi we will continue along some spectacular routes that are part of the natural reserves of Irati on the French side.

From the Col d’Irau we will have two alternatives. The more demanding one goes down to the beautiful valley of Esterenzubi by a narrow and aerial asphalt road with steep slopes. Once in the valley we will turn 180º south to start the ascent to the short but hard Organbide pass with a spectacular Comlech at the top. From here a quick descent to the old Orbaizeta Arms Factory and our accommodation.
The other alternative is 10 km shorter, but above all reduces the difference in altitude of the day about 600 mt. We will enter the Navarre side of the Irati forest through a pass that will take us to the Irabia reservoir. Here we will take a stretch of track in good condition that borders the reservoir to the dam. It is a stretch of gravel track of about 5 km. From this point we will continue along the asphalted track that comes from one of the two entrances to the nature reserve on the west side. On the way we will pass through some of the areas with the most spectacular specimens of Irati beech trees.

The alternative extension of the day has two routes. On the one hand we can reach the Arpea Cave, which represents one of the most spectacular geological folds in the Pyrenees. To do this we will climb the Orgambide pass from the Navarre side, much shorter than the French side but with some notable ramps. From here we will start a downhill route along a narrow asphalted track with very aerial views, which connects two farmhouses in the area until the last stretch of 1 km that we will walk along a path to the entrance of the fold.

The other route goes to the heart of the Irati reserve through the paved road that connects with the Irabia reservoir, where we will see some of the most outstanding beech trees in the reserve.

At this stage it is good to assess the strength and energy reserve for the stages to come. On the other hand, if we take the alternative route through the Esterenzubi Valley in the morning, we can also reach the Cave from the Orgambide pass before finishing the stage in Burguete.

We will continue for a good part of the day enjoying the lush forests in the beech forests of Irati.

From Burguete we arrive quickly to Roncesvalles where we can pause to contemplate the monumental complex and see the atmosphere of the pilgrims facing the first stage of the Camino a Santiago. Comfortable ascent to the Ibañeta pass and the beginning of another of these sought-after stretches of local asphalted tracks, really aerial and fun, with no traffic beyond the few hunters in the area. We will make a small stretch of 3 km of a committed climb, closed by a comfortable beech canopy, to then begin the long descent to the hidden valley of Aldudes and Urepel. Long descent of 13 km to this last village saving 750 mt of height difference. From Urepel we start a climb of 5 km. with some occasional sections of steep slopes. Then we will follow a stretch in a lighter ascent to start a comfortable and fast descent to the Eugi reservoir through the spectacular wooded domain of Quinto Real. This border territory already in the Navarre area, but historically exploited by the French people, takes its name from the royal fifth that the kings and lords of these conquered areas gave in payment to the King of Navarre. Even today some French families living in this territory share, with the agreement of both parties, taxes and services on both sides of the border.

Nearby we will find the remains of the Royal Factory of Arnas de Eugi, from where we will begin the ascent of the last important pass of the day, the pass of Artesiaga of 984 meters, which gives access to the Baztan Valley. The ascent to the pass is easy, 7 km to save a 300 mt. difference in altitude. The descent, much longer, will leave us in the vicinity of Elizondo, a village that represents the capital of the Valley and for which it is worth making a detour of 4 km. Its labyrinthine streets located on both sides of the river Baztan (or Bidasoa) and its stately farmhouses are its great attraction. From here we are separated just 14 km gliding through the valley to our destination in Doneztebe.

In the afternoon, if there is any strength left, we have prepared a nice loop through the Malerreka Valley in the Alto Bidasoa region. It is a route through beautiful lonely and winding roads that cross the valley and pass to the area of Zubieta through a cemented section. This alternative stage would represent about 28 km and about 600 mt. of added height difference.

This day and the next are the two shortest of the route, but they will need our commitment to complete them and enjoy a program full of attractive points in the sporting, scenic and cultural. To begin with, 7 km from the start we will find a small but demanding pass of just 4 km to overcome 400 mt of elevation gain. At the beginning of the climb the most difficult ramps are concentrated. Once we arrive at the pass we have spectacular views: on one side a magnificent watchtower overlooking the villages of the Baztan Valley and on the other hand the incredible reserve of the forests of the Señorío de Bertiz Natural ParkWe recommend crossing it on another occasion with a mountain bike. Finally, we begin to visualize one of the most solitary routes of our Pyrenean crossing:

30 kilometers along an asphalted track that was made to communicate the different scattered hamlets between the valleys of Baztan, Etxalar and the French valleys of Ainhoa – Sare. It is a long journey of silence and contemplation through a lush nature with a continuous up and down between forests and small valleys. If we have time and strength to spare we can make an approach to the interesting Infernuko Errota (Devil’s Mill). But we also have to make time to visit the caves of Zugarramurdi that we will find towards the middle of the route and that will be the end of this long lonely stretch. The first has its attractions in a hidden and fascinating nature that we must cross on foot, the second in the geological spectacle that was formed to carve some cavities of gigantic size. But the caves also drag an interesting and terrible history behind them, which refers to the inquisitorial process that led several women accused of witchcraft, the Sorginak, to the stake in the seventeenth century. Alex de la Iglesia popularized the place and took indirect reference of the facts in the well-known comedy of “the Witches of Zugarramurdi”..

From Zugarramurdi we have a quiet descent to the vicinity of the French village of Sare before starting the last climb of the day: The Lizarrieta pass that connects the valley of Sare with the valley of Etxalar: 10 km to save 400 mt between lush forests on a narrow and rough road, and then travel to Etxalar by a fast and colorful descent.

No matter how tired we are, a visit to the village of Etxalar is a must. Surrounded by mountains and green meadows, the village has received awards for the preservation of its popular architectural legacy. Its oldest houses date from the 16th and 17th centuries. The church is flanked by the old cemetery with discoid stelae(Hilarris) typical of the Basque Country, worked in stone with specimens in this case from the XVII century.

From Etxalar, a quick descent to the Bidasoa valley, and a short climb to the next village of Lesaka, one of the most charming villages of Baztan.

If there is still strength and willpower left, we can make a nice loop from the village of Lesaka to Arantza. Before we will pass through Igantzi, which is the smallest village in this region, but like all those we travel through it deserves a walk among its gothic church, its large farmhouses and its old fountain.

We continue along the river towards the Sanctuary of San Juan Xarwithin the nature reserve of the same name. It is a unique enclave that preserves the only native birch forest of the peninsula. We will find a fountain where we will have to follow the tradition of rubbing ourselves with the water of the 3 spouts if we want to obtain the miraculous effects on our skin. We will continue along the road by which we came to the pretty village of Arantza. It is worth strolling through the small but charming town. Return to the Bidasoa valley to take the old road on the right bank that will take us to cross the river over a bridge that gives us access to the road that leads to Lesaka. This loop is about 25 km extra and about 600 mt of elevation gain.

Last stage that will take us from the mountains of the Navarre Pyrenees to the waters of the Bay of Biscay that bathe Donosti. In between, two passes of moderate altitude but demanding climbs. The sea views will be rewarding throughout the day, with spectacular views of the Basque coast especially from the Jaizkibel.

The first pass is actually composed of two cols, Aguiña and Aritxulegi, both separated by the San Antón reservoir. The first pass of Agiña has a distance of 8 km with an average of 6%, presenting small peaks a little higher towards the end of the pass. We will continue through a recurring landscape of pastures and farmhouses alternating with more wooded areas. 3 km downhill will take us to the San Antón reservoir, the start of the second short pass, 3.5 km at an average of 5.5% to overcome 200 mt. After this second pass, the road, solitary and with good road surface, will take us to the town of Oiartzun in Guipuzcoa.

We will continue towards Hondarribia through the Peñas de Aia Natural Park. Our senses will be quite busy between the contemplation of extraordinary natural surroundings and the views of the Cantabrian Sea, with the Jaizquibel and Hondarrabia cut out on the horizon. The last passes are beautiful but hard, the Pyrenees resist to drop gently towards the sea.

In Hondarribia, if you have enough time it will be worthwhile to stroll through the old fishermen’s quarter. Here a great variety of pintxo bars and restaurants are arranged along Santiago street. The tempting gastronomic smells emanate from an endless succession of small wooden houses that decorate their colorful facades. The old town treasures curious houses and palaces such as the National Parador, which was the former Castle of Charles V, the Zuloaga Palace, the Eguiluz Palace, the Etxebestenea House-Palace, etc.

From Hondarribia we will start the last pass of the route. A great classic of Basque cycling with spectacular views on its route. The mythical port of Jaizkibel has 10km that saves 455 mt. of slope at an average of 4’6%. Between km 6 and 7 there is a peak of 10%. Except for this stretch, all the rest is very bearable. At km 5 we find the important hermitage of Our Lady of Guadalupe with a nice view of the beach of Hondarribia and the exit of the Bidasoa with Hendaye dominating on the other side. We will follow the climb and face the hardest km at 9% average. The forests are being left behind and the pastures appear. The last 3 km are gradually more bearable.

The descent to Lezo and the town of Pasaia is fast and with sensational views of the coast. The stops with camera to immortalize the landscapes, will tempt us like the song of the sirens.

From Pasaia we will move to the last accommodation, we will celebrate our journey through the Lonely Pyrenees, remembering the adventures that we will have spent with the group.

Quiet trip to Barcelona, probably through the highways and fast, but quieter roads that run parallel to the Pyrenees.